http://rvpowerpartsplus.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=268

http://rvpowerpartsplus.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=153

Just joined the forum looking for advice on re-wiring my trailer.  Has anyone ever done a conversion/install without using a converter??  I have the std. 12v stuff i.e. battery, clearance lights, small dome lights and won't be doing much with that except maybe adding a few more LED clearance lights.  This trailer is already set-up with 2 separate panels (both have 2 - 20A breakers) with a mess of wiring that needs replaced.  Everytime I plug into shore power my house breaker trips even with nothing on in the trailer. The shore power cord looks like a typical 12ga extension cord with a 110 male plug.  There is 1 black wire that is stripped but not connected to a breaker in one panel which may be the cause.  There could also be a thousand other spots that could be causing a short.  Long story short I need some help running a system that can handle the items below and possibly some extra stuff in the future.  I don't want to waste time tracing down what is installed to find the problem, especially since I have no clue what was put in.  Any help would be awesome, I will try to post some pics off my phone here shortly.

What I plan to re-install in 'living qrtrs':
(2) 4' flouresent lights on 1 switch
Enough outlets to power stuff like phone chargers, microwave, tv/vcr and/or laptop, space heater, etc... not all at once though.
circuit for air conditioner
circuit for LP furnace (option to just use a ductless portable system since it's minimal sq. footage)

Shop area needs:
15A compressor outlet
(4) 4' flouresent lights on 1 switch
outlet for stereo system (home style with built in amp and set-up for multiple speakers)
outlets for power tools i.e. drills, saws-all, grinder, etc...  Not running all at once
power for (3) outdoor recessed halogen lights
optional circuit for future air conditioner in shop

I have already lined out things like shore power cords, recessed twist-loc housing, etc... Just have not been able to narrow down a schematic or example of how to set my distribution panel up.  Judging by the list of 'goodies' I would probably have no choice but to run a 50A 120v service.

Ideas???  Thanks for any help

just joined forum...haven't had a chance to check it out any farther than pigpen's question...i'm havin sort of a related problem and need to look to someone much wiser than myself. this is all brand new territory...just bought my first rv, an 86 jayco about 3 weeks ago with 2 entry doors. Trailer was supposedly leveled before my purchase (will need to check out further next trip up this weekend). Doors/screen doors both seem to be off-kilter in each entrance, but sorta in opposite ways...i do not believe there is anything wrong with the locks themselves, at least at this point. it's just on the door areas that are opposite from the hinged sides.

main entrance: have to push DOWN on screen door hard to get in/out (sticks), plus outside door is apparently off as well since it seems to be perfectly lined up to the screened door.  a little tough locking up...need to line up door to frame, pushing slightly downward so all locking devices will do their job. a little bit of effort/time needed, but can deal with it so far.

2nd entrance: same-type problem except it's in the opposite direction...must push UP hard on screen door to get in/out, but here lies the major problem..."completely" unable to lock this entrance to the bedroom...seems that the outside lock alignment to door jamb of inside frame is totally out-of-sync.

• Questions...

        1)  Is using a "level" the best, and only way, to make sure all is leveled as it should be?

        2)  Most importantly...thinking "out-of-alignment" due to age and leveling here..after trailer leveling is fixed if needed, i'm wanting to "tap" each entranceway door/screen door gently up or down with a hammer as needed for proper alignment, checking and tightening hardware along the way.  Maybe  a little WD-40 in the process and to keep things working???  Or new

Any ideas or thoughts?   ...just can't wait to get into this whole new adventure...been waiting a long, long time!  Thanks all!!!  sorry for the long post.

and good luck pigpen...

˜MJ˜

just joined forum...haven't had a chance to check it out any farther than pigpen's question...i'm havin sort of a related problem and need to look to someone much wiser than myself. this is all brand new territory...just bought my first rv, an 86 jayco about 3 weeks ago with 2 entry doors. Trailer was supposedly leveled before my purchase (will need to check out further next trip up this weekend). Doors/screen doors both seem to be off-kilter in each entrance, but sorta in opposite ways...i do not believe there is anything wrong with the locks themselves, at least at this point. it's just on the door areas that are opposite from the hinged sides.

main entrance: have to push DOWN on screen door hard to get in/out (sticks), plus outside door is apparently off as well since it seems to be perfectly lined up to the screened door.  a little tough locking up...need to line up door to frame, pushing slightly downward so all locking devices will do their job. a little bit of effort/time needed, but can deal with it so far.

2nd entrance: same-type problem except it's in the opposite direction...must push UP hard on screen door to get in/out, but here lies the major problem..."completely" unable to lock this entrance to the bedroom...seems that the outside lock alignment to door jamb of inside frame is totally out-of-sync.

• Questions...

        1)  Is using a "level" the best, and only way, to make sure all is leveled as it should be?

        2)  Most importantly...thinking "out-of-alignment" due to age and leveling here..after trailer leveling is fixed if needed, i'm wanting to "tap" each entranceway door/screen door gently up or down with a hammer as needed for proper alignment, checking and tightening hardware along the way.  Maybe  a little WD-40 in the process and to keep things working???  Or new

Any ideas or thoughts?   ...just can't wait to get into this whole new adventure...been waiting a long, long time!  Thanks all!!!  sorry for the long post.

and good luck pigpen...

˜MJ˜

 Here you go.

https://www.makariosrv.com/products/RV-Power-Grip-Replacement-Receptacle-30A-by-Camco.html

https://www.makariosrv.com/products/RV-Power-Grip-30-AMP-Replacement-Plug-by-Camco.html

How old of a trailer is it? If it is old you may have a warped frame or out of alignment.

Well here is a cheap easy fix.

Go to the 98 cents store and buy a mouse pad. Any color you like.

Find your water pump and remove the ffour screws that mount it to the floor and insert mouse pad under the pump. Then just reinstall the four screws.

Now you have a much quieter water pump.

daveinwa said:

Howdy–

I wouldn't fix anything else right now except the male & female plugs.  If doing it yourself, be sure to strip the wiring back to where no discoloration or damage is.  And buy high quality replacement plugs

Good luck, and before you do electrical repairs, and you are not sure, ask an electrician.  Wiring must be done right, to be safe.  And, when wiring, I never have a beer until the job is done.

My compliments - you're absolute right!

Here is a bit more info - it's just good to know

.

–>

A/C  start-up problem…

• Wait at least 3 min before restarting the A/C (after a shut down). The high side of your system could be at more than 200PSI, the compressor is unable to start with this high pressure. In a short time, the pressure equalizes to the low side and the A/C is ready to working again.
• Run the fan on High speed for about 3 min. before starting the A/C. This will lower the pressure on the high side on hot days.
• Start the A/C on LOW-cool and let it running for about 3 min. before switch to Hi-cool.
  
  
• Install a hard start like the SPP6 to ease the start up of the compressor. A hard start is just an additional capacitor used on the start. As soon as the compressor runs – the hard start-circuit will disconnect the start capacitor.

If your compressor does hum when starting, please don’t try it again over and over, or you will loose the compressor. Please seek professional help, it’s cheaper than a new comp (some 800 to 1200 dollars…)

Y’all take care, have a nice day – walter and dianne

Yesterday I didn’t even know how to spell engineer, today I am already one…

  Dave

Well, you're probably looking at the run cap.  It'll have three connections on top, one labeled HERM, one fan, one common.  It'll be something like 35-5 or 45-5 or something.  You need a good run capacitor, to run your A/C.  You can also add a start capacitor, especially for hard-starting compressors or to assist where voltages/amps are questionable.  You only need the start cap for the compressor, not the fan.

Melted or damaged plugs should be repaired now.  They only get worse with time.  Poor connections cause resistance, resistance causes heat, heat causes fires.  This is bad.  You need to either repair this yourself or get an electrician to repair it.  If the plug is bad, you could be getting improper voltages to your trailer & A/C unit.  This could be the source of your whole A/C problem, and could also toast other expensive stuff that you like.

I wouldn't fix anything else right now except the male & female plugs.  If doing it yourself, be sure to strip the wiring back to where no discoloration or damage is.  And buy high quality replacement plugs.

Good luck, and before you do electrical repairs, and you are not sure, ask an electrician.  Wiring must be done right, to be safe.  And, when wiring, I never have a beer until the job is done.