Hi, I would put a thermometer in the A/C register and it should read about 45 degrees or so. If not, you might need a repair or new unit.

 Hi, a bigger fan would most likely make  the air conditioner warmer.  As the condenser cools, if it gets too cold, the compressor will cycle. The faster the fan runs, or the more air moved by the fan, the warmer the air from the condenser gets and on high speeds sometimes the compressor won't need to cycle because the condenser won't freeze. Testing air conditioners at slow fan speeds will let it get as cold as it will get. Possibly you need a larger or a second air conditioner in your trailer.

Hi

I was reading the question and if I am correct you are having problems cooling down with you present A/C? There are some questions that should be considered, before adding or attempting any mods.

1. Is there sufficient refrigerant for the unit (may have to have a technician check this) but the unit or manual may indicate how to do this. The manual will say 2.5 oz of refrigerant R314 (or something similiar.

2. If there is a dryer installed in the unit, look for a metal cylinder, with a small window, which will show if there is liquid refrigerant flowing the system properly (not all A/C units have this) and if there is none, you may be low on refrigerant. If there is a little button in the dryer window and it is discoloured, it may mean you have a leak and moisture has been drawn into the unit. This will mean a trip to an A/C technician for purge, test and refill.

Next

If the unit was installed as an aftermarket project, you should check the unit's capacity to see if it has sufficient capacity to cool the space in your RV in specfic range of ambient temperatures. This may be the reason the temperature does not drop the temperature to a satisfactory level.

If you are in a moist laden area, the unit may not have the ability to dehumdify the interior to a comfortable range. This will make the felt condition seem “hotter”, even though the unit is working correctly.

Another check is if the thermostat temperature reading is accurate, if the unit is set for 80F and the unit reaches “80F” and shuts down, check the air temperature (and humdity) with a seperature temperature and humidty meter or guage, to see if the measurements are accurate.

If you have a long RV, air circulation may be affected, if there is insufficient air distribution.

There are some things to consider, hope that helps.

Brian

I know this seems simple but Have you checked the filters? Maybe the fresh air coming is clogged and your not getting enough air out.

 Hi, Marty. At the top of this page, click on “VIDEOS” and watch the one on air conditioner maintenance. The part you want to watch and do is at the very end. Interior air conditioner filter cleaning.

I am new to RV's but have been an HVAC&R tech for nearly 20 years.

Temperature = pressure and pressure = temperature.

If the unit is freezing it is most likely one of three things.

1 The beginning of a low charge. The amount of refrigerant has decreased but the capacity of the compressor is constant. This results in the suction press being too low which equals the suction temperature being to low, going far enough below 32 degrees to cause the condensation on the evaporator coil to freeze. The temperature difference in temp between the air in and air out should be 18-24 degrees.

2 Poor air flow. The refrigerant in the evaporator is removing the heat from the air which results in condensation. If the air is moving too slow due to poor fan performance or a restriction in air flow causing the air to be overcooled thus over condensing the water and freezing to the coils. Check the air flow through the vent. If it's good this is not your problem.

3 Running an ac when the outdoor ambient is too low can result in overcondensing or overcooling the refrigerant causing it to enter the evaporator at such a temp that the evaporator coil will freeze because sufficient air flow is not available even with all components working.