(this is a continuation of previous postings…and I need help! 

mlbeep (August 15th, 2009 at 9:12 am)

ModMyRV (August 15th, 2009 at 11:41 am)

@mlbeep: when you swapped back to the original, did the motor “slowness” go back to normal? This is interesting in that the cap is only used to help start the motor. After the motor is started, the cap is removed from the circuit electronically (that’s the “E” on the end of the cap number). The only thing I can think of is that you may have swapped out the motor run cap. Doing that could result in the problem you are having. Do you have any pictures of your install?

mlbeep (August 15th, 2009 at 2:23 pm)

ModMyRV (August 15th, 2009 at 3:29 pm)

The best way to post pictures would be in the forum. Start a new thread and we’ll try and get some answers for you.

So, here 'tis.  Correction to my previous post, this is a 15k Dometic unit.  I also note that the (what I think is) the start cap has a brown and white wire, different than the red and white in Mod #82.  What concerns me most is that the black wire does not go to the run cap… 

ANY help would be appreciated.  I hope to run this on a (yet to be purchased) Honda 3000w generator….

Outside a new 15k Dometic unit…note I only have 4 screws to mess with.

Cover off…..

Diagram on the outside of the internal box…doesn't seem to resemble what is going on inside…

Flip-down view of the inside of the internal box.

What I think is the run cap above and the start cap below…

Close-up of the (start cap)(?)

The new unit, terminals changed to work with the run cap…I thought…

All I did was remove the brown and white wires from the start cap (?) and attached them to the Supco unit.  Fired it up and the unit ran at about 1/2 speed, so I returned everything back to original…

Thanks, but…

No way I'm going to try the wiring.  The unit works just fine as-is, and since I have no clue where the wires come from or go, I'm not messing with it.

The dealer is pretty close, I'll ask them about this, but not so sure they are experts in this area.  I did a swap of the OEM thermostat with a Honeywell digital (which was also a riot) and that confused the dealer…

Hope one of the readers will know this stuff, otherwise I'll just buy a bigger generator 

Love this site, really helpful…

Thanks Lloyd!!!

Sorry for the delay, haven't checked back…

Makes a lot of sense to me what you say.  So, as it stands, it doesn't look like there is a Start Cap on this unit, correct?  So, the Supco unit would simply link to the larger Run Cap (leave the Fan Cap alone) but not sure how to wire.  My Run Cap has two sets of connections on top with one set not connected to anything (in case you aren't aware, click on my pictures for a larger version…)…

Guessing here, one connection from the Supco unit to the left set and the other to the right set?

VERY cautious here as I am clueless as an electrician and with a new TT, sure don't want to screw this up…

REALLY appreciate the help!!

Ah HA!  Talked to a real electrician and showed him the pictures I took.  I didn't realize that the picture of the two Caps, that the larger one (the run cap for the compressor) had another set of contacts, so a third set hidden in the back of the two showing in the picture.  On that third set was where the RED wire was connected.  The electrician told me to put one wire of the SPP unit on that set of contacts, and the other on the set of contacts with all the white wires.  I did that and the unit fired up no problem.

I am waiting for another electrician to stop by and test the load on several elements on the TT (like the A/C, water heater, just the fan, etc).  It might be my imagination, but while on shore power, the A/C seemed to kick in without even trying, like there was no load at all, but tests will show.  Of course, I got this done the same day as our first frost (Indiana) so guess I'm in good shape for next year…

By the way, for those who might be considering a 3000iHAN Honda instead of the 2000w models, but are not thrilled of the small gas tank, I also got a 6 gallon tank that pumps gas into the generator, giving a LONG run time.  Got it (the “All-Feed) from here: http://wisesales.com/DurationTanks.html

Thanks to all for your help with this project.  :) 

Has anyone installed the SPP6E on a Carrier AirV 13.5 A/c. I looked in my capacitor box and there does not appear to be a start Capacitor. The scehmatic does not show one, there is a PTC small device next to large Capacitor. I would assume I just connect to the Herm and Comm and find a location for the Supco since it will not fit in the Capacitor Box? Any help is appreciated, Thanks

ModMyRV said:

If you have by chance you have a picture, that would be worth a thousand words. I'm not familiar with the Carrier unit from a wiring standpoint, only Coleman and Dometic. From how you describe your unit, it sounds like you could add the cap as you describe. But without seeing how it's currently configured, it's hard to be sure.

I do not have a actual pic at this time, but attahced is the schematic and a pic from the manual that almost shows the run capacitor for the Carrier. Hope this is any help to you..

Edit by admin on 3/24/2010 at 11:03 am.

We have the standard ducted unit. I do not see a start capacitor in it. I did install the cap as you mentioned, unit runs fine not sure if it changed the way it starts on my yamaha 2400. It does start but does pull a load with everyhting off except converter. Thanks for your help..

I installed an SPP6E hard start capacitor, piggy-backing it across the starting capacitor terminals on my Penquin Duo-Therm a/c unit. I'm using a Yamaha 2400 watt inverter-generator to try and keep us cool in the summer. Without the hard start capacitor it was a sure no-go; generator revved up to full blast, finally timed out and tripped the breaker.

With the capacitor installed I at first thought things weren't going to work out either. My line voltage in the RV dropped from 121 volts down to about 46, and hung there for what seemed like forever. I suppose forever really translated to a few seconds. Of course the blower fan in the a/c stopped working, and then all of a sudden, the compressor kicked over and the blower fan came back up. Shore ppower reading steadied out at 119 volts. 

Of course it does this same, gut-wrenching song and dance every time the compressor cycles on; is this something I need to learn to live with, or is there something else I'm missing. I dunno if my old ticker will take the “everthing dies for a bit, then gets resurrected” thing for a long road trip.

Now that I look at it, maybe I did a dumb-dumb. I did piggy-back this new cap to the old starting capacitor. Should I have just junked the old capacitor and stuck the new one in it's stead? Doing that will require some kind of terminal adaptation.