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Full Antique coach renovation

UserPost

10:06 am
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

1

Hello, 

Just stumbled on this forum and it is a great resource for those of us who love doing our own work.  I notice that most of the rigs on this site are of a much newer vintage than ours, I though you all might get a kick out of my project.

My grandfather bought this coach new, and I remember spending summers in it as a child.  My parents inherited it when grandpa passed, and then later passed it to my wife and I in 1996.  This coach has been regularly used, maintained, and upgraded since it was new, so it never degraded into an “old coach in the back yard” situation.

I have written these posts for a motorcycle forum I belong to and am just posting them here for your enjoyment as well.  They span the last two years of work.

Enjoy.

My wife and I have owned our 1976 26′ Executive motor coach since 1996.  Before that my father owned it for about 10 years.  Before that, my grandfather was the original owner.  It is a one family owned rig.  It has always been used, cared for, and tastefully updated through the years and we have no intention of getting rid of her any time soon.  Paid for is a good thing.



She looks good for an old coach and still draws attention at the RV rallies I used to attend with my previous employment.


A bit of history on the Executive coach.  Executive Industries made coaches from the early 70’s until Monaco bought them out in the 80’s.  The Executive line is now owned by Monaco.  I was told by numerous “old timer” RVers at various rallies that the Executive really was something special.  It was the king of the class A gas powered rigs in the 70’s.  One gent told me that the Executive is what they all dreamed of owning when they were getting into RVing, but all they could afford was Winnebagos.  


That quality of build is still evident today.  She drives pretty nice.  The quality of the interior is better than many coaches built today.  Solid woods, high quality finishes, and many touches that were ahead of the times like large refrigerators and central vacuum systems.


Over the years there have been many updates to this coach to keep it current.

-Flat screen TV/DVD player

-New upholstery, cushions and curtains

-New captains chairs

-Updated electrical systems

-Updated battery capacities

-Air bag suspension upgrade

-Bilstein shocks

-Radial tires

-Vorad collision avoidance radar system (yes, I am serious)

-GPS system w/Sirius satellite radio

-Many power improvements to the Chrysler 440 engine.


So many more updates that would take pages to list.  Which brings me to now.  I have a few main goals to accomplish with this major service.


1.  Replace the cam.  About 30k miles ago my father had the heads rebuilt and under the advisement of a friend, installed a Crane RV cam.  Big mistake.  This cam starts to produce torque at 2500 rpm, which is much too high.  It cackles and lopes at idle.  Sounds like a dragster.  It already has Thorley 1 5/8 long tube headers, Edlebrock intake/carb, and a MSD ignition.


So the cam is being replaced with a Comp Cams unit that builds torque from 1,000 rpms.  Hopefully that will help with low end power.  While I am getting to the cam, I am replacing all hoses/belts, water pump, thermostat, gaskets, seals and checking the rod and main bearings.  Did a compression test and all holes are hovering between 120-133 psi, so I do not need to re ring it yet.


2.  Replace the steering box to get rid of the wander caused from a worn box.


3.  Pull the fuel tanks and flush them.  Using the opportunity to replace all fuel lines, and do a better job installing the axillary fuel pump.  


4.  Install a TripTek Tire wireless tire pressure/temperature monitoring system.


5.  Replace the front brakes, and all flexible brake lines.  Pack the front wheel bearings.


Let the wild ruckus begin:


Pull the coach into the shop and wash it down.  Nice to have a temperature controlled shop to use (thanks Dad!).


Start pulling the front end apart.  Boy they built things like tanks back then.  Nothing light weight here.  The radiator probably weighed 50 lbs alone.

[Image Removed by User]

First major removal project is the steering box.  It is kicking my butt.  The way it is mounted you can not get a pitman arm puller on the arm to remove it.  Not that it would do any good.  That sucker is on there and I still dont know how I am going to get it off.  


I have it rigged up that the nut is off the arm, and the box is unbolted.  I am using the hole in the 3/8″ plate that the shaft goes through as a kind of bearing separator, and am using a 20 ton jack to press the shaft out of the pitman arm.  Nothing is working as of yet.  I have applied a lot of heat, force, and cussing with no success.



The nut is backed off on the shaft, I just left it on so that when it gives it can only move about 3/16″ so the steering box does not go flying off the mount.


I will update more later.

10:27 am
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

2

I am having trouble inserting photos. Trying to link to my photo hosting site. Working on figuring out the HTML tagging. If you have a quick solution, let me know. In my other forums I would just surround the link with [img]….[/img] but that does not seem to work.

10:56 am
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

3

I think I have it figured out now. Pretty painful to do, will take me a while.

11:42 am
October 16, 2011


ModMyRV

Admin

Gardnerville, NV

posts 302

4

Welcome to the forum! To insert an image, just leave off the [img] tags on either side of the URL.

4:40 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

5

Friday, March 5th. Last night I inspected a rod bearing and a main bearing to see what needed to be changed. The coach has 103k on an old carburetor equipped 440, so I was not holding out any hope that I could just run it as is. It has been lugging around a 14k lb coach it’s whole life. The main bearings looked perfect. :clap :clap The rod bearings, well, they were in need of a change, but all in all, they were not too bad. Can someone explain the spotting like this? This was the #4 bearing, and the #5 was the same. All the others showed various levels of ‘normal’ wear.

All the crank journals looked beautiful, and since there was no real issues with the bearings, I just slid in a set of new standard ones.


Next project? Camshaft.

4:42 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

6

ModMyRV said:

Welcome to the forum! To insert an image, just leave off the [img] tags on either side of the URL.


If I do that, it just shows the photos as links, rather than inserting them.

4:54 pm
October 16, 2011


ModMyRV

Admin

Gardnerville, NV

posts 302

7

Oh, I didn't mean to paste the link directly into the post. Try using the image toolbar button above (next to the horseshoe looking button) and paste the direct URL to the image in the little box that pops up. Then your images should appear in the post.

5:04 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

8

Got the cam out, along with the old oil pump.  I used a type of cleaner pad on my angle die grinder that a buddy told me about who owns a shop.  It was about a $25 purchase from the Mac tool guy but boy oh boy, where were you all my life?  It cleaned flanges like nothing else I have ever used and did not put abrasive dust in the engine cavity.



New Melling high volume, stock pressure, pump.  



New cam, timing gears/chain installed with push rods and rockers.



Tonight I want to have the engine sealed back up, oil installed and spin it a bit with the plugs, ignition removed to prime the oil pump and galleys.  I did fill the pump with Lubriplate, so hopefully that helps.


I am debating on plugging the exhaust port that heats the intake.  I do not use this coach in very cold weather, and I always fully warm it before driving off.  I also have a manual choke, so I do not need the heat to pull it off.  


With the move to ethanol (E10) based fuels that carbed motors do not like, I am trying to keep the carb as cool as I can.  Can anyone see a downside to plugging this port?  For those who do not know, it is a port that allows exhaust gasses to pass through the bottom of the intake manifold to warm it.


5:10 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

9

Everything I am touching that was made with rubber or plastic is just falling apart in my hands.  Or, it is so hard that you have to bust it apart with a hammer and a chisel to get off.


Tonight's project was to build the manifold for the axillary fuel pump and to get one of the two fuel tanks on the ground.  I did succeed in that endeavor, but it fought me all the way.


The fuel pump was easy, if not fun, actually.  I have never used a flaring tool before to build metal lines.  It went pretty smooth.  The aux. pump is for times when it is really hot and the E10 fuels are having problems with the carburetor.  The pump can be switched on to pressurize the mechanical pump reducing the chance of a vapor lock situation.  

Included in the kit is a one way check valve that you install so that when the engine is running on it's own it can pull fuel and bypass the electric pump.  But if you need to kick it on, the fuel will force feed the mechanical pump.


So I built this nice manifold system so I can get rid of the pile of rubber hoses that fed the old system.  Pretty cool, eh?:evil 



I am also running metal fuel lines all the way to the tanks to eliminate the chance of cracked lines sucking air or creating leaks.


Time to tackle the main tank.  I have it about 75% empty and borrowed an atv jack to lower it.  Here is where the problems started.  The main fuel filler hose was so hard that I could not get it to budge off of either the neck or the filler spout.  I finally had to drive it off with a punch and a hammer.  Same with the vent hose.


After much cussing I had the beast on the ground.



The fuel lines for both the engine and generator were full of cracks.  No surprise as they were 34 years old.:deal   But I did get some good news though.  I held my breath and looked down into the tank with a flash light expecting to see 34 years of rust and corrosion on the inside of the tank.  They were spotless.  Looked like the inside of a shiny beer can.  



Tomorrow night; the auxiliary tank.


Here is a parting shot of the engine.  Almost ready to run.


Since my last update I got the fuel tanks plumbed and installed. But not without issues. I tend to loose my focus when distracted. That is why I have been working on this project only in the evenings when I can ignore the phone. Case in point:

I was getting ready to lift the main tank back into position. I had it in place and I was completing the hookup of the fuel lines to the generator, engine, and the vent hose before lifting. Phone rings, I look over and it is Dad. Oh well, I answer the call. After the call I pick up where I left off and lift the tank back into position with the ATV jack. It takes me about 20 minutes to get it all bolted into place when I roll over and what do I see laying on the ground? The vent hose.  (insert lots of 4 letter words here)


Out comes the tank again, hose installed, final checks and back into place.  I guess I did not need that hour anyway.


One of the things I am doing with this project is to relocate and reroute many of the systems for easy service.  While I am hoping I get another 34 years of relative trouble free service, stuff happens.  Things break.  And they break in the most unforgiving places.  So I am doing my best to make all the systems on this coach easily serviceable.  While on a trip, on the side of the interstate in 100 degree weather.


My new fuel system.  From the tanks to the selector valve, into the auxiliary fuel pump, to the main fuel pump, to the new canister fuel filter, to the carb.  I pulled all the lines away from the engine to minimize heat.




Since I removed what was left of the 70's era emission control system I had to deal with the fuel tank vents.  I “T'd” them together then routed a hose up high, then down, installing a fuel filter to make sure no dirt was sucked up.  How is this?  Never saw parts from NAPA made in Russia before.



New fuel filler hoses and the filler fittings were installed completing the fuel system.  :clap 



Last thing for today was installing new heater hoses, the PS pump and new lines, alternator and finally the fan clutch with fan.



I think she is going to be making noise within a few days.  I want to get the front brakes, bearings and hoses done first so I can get it on the ground before firing the engine.  For safety reasons.

5:14 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

10

Tomorrow we start it.  Dad is back in town and I really want another set of eyes here when we fire her for the first time.  Too many things were modified.  Need to look for leaks and keep fluids topped up while the cam is breaking in.  Once she fires she needs to run for 15 minutes at 1500 rpms.


Over the last week I pulled both the front rotors off and repacked the bearings.  You think your pickup truck's rotors are heavy?  These weighed in at 64 lbs each.  One side had been done before and the other was starting to show some wear, so they were replaced.


While they were off I ran them down to Les Schwab tires for a quick turning.  They had never been turned before and were in great shape the guy said.  Good, because they are getting hard to find.


In the box are new brake hoses that are waiting for my newly rebuilt calipers to be shipped in.  Due here Thursday.

Since my back was still feeling ok, I decided to pull the rear drums and check the rear bearings.  Those suckers are over 150 lbs. I used an atv jack to get them off.  Brakes and bearings looked great, so it all went back together.  I am also waiting for a new brake hose going from the chassis to the rear axle.  The old ones were looking pretty tired.

This is how the old battery cables looked.  Yes, I am ashamed.

This is how the new ones I had made up today looked. :clap 

Of course, this is why I dont like anyone to work on my stuff. As I was installing them the cables just pulled out of the ends.  The shrink tube was all that was holding them on.  So I had to tear them all apart and solder them.  What a PITA.  I will be talking with the shop that did them tomorrow.

Finished:

Tomorrow she lives again.  (knocking on wood)

Well, I got a story for you guys. I did get her fired today, but not without some pain and a lot of frustration.

She was all ready to fire yesterday. I did all my checks and all was right, well, they were not, but it would take until this evening to find the problem. She
would not even try to fire. No matter what I did, nothing. After a couple of hours I found that there was a glitch in the wiring of the new ignition system. The ignition wire I connected to that triggers the MSD ignition would go dead when the starter was cranking. So I fixed that and we had spark. Still no dice.

I pulled the carb apart, checked fuel pressure, rechecked that I had all my spark plug wires in correctly, I had the firing order right, etc., etc., etc. The only think that kept coming up was that I wondered if I somehow mounted the cam out of time.

It was not until this afternoon that I pulled the left valve cover and the distributor cap and starting at TDC of #1, rotated the engine and noticed that the distributor shaft was 180d out. I corrected issue and she fired to life.

Oil pressure is great and it never got hot running 15 minutes at 1500 rpms to run in the cam. Let her idle down after that and adjusted the carb and timing. She is purring now. 

Tomorrow I finish the brakes as the new calipers showed up today. She should be on the ground tomorrow afternoon. I will get some photos and may even try a video tomorrow.


Something else I would like to fill you in on. I always have run Autolite plugs in the beast. They were easy to get and always ran good. Well yesterday when I flooded her so bad I decided to pick up a new set to install today. 

I started to set the gaps and noticed that the ground electrodes were really off center. Upon closer inspection it was not the grounds that were off, the center insulator was off center in the bores. Then I noticed that distance that the electrode protruded out of the insulator varied by almost 1/8 of an inch. The more I looked the more problems I saw. Threads messed up, loose insulators in the metal bases, and cracked ground electrodes.

It was then I noticed the reason. “Made in China”. So much for Good US plugs. It took some calling around but I found the proper NGK plugs and the quality difference is huge.

The coach is done and had her maiden voyage. It was a short run into the hills so I was not able to check mileage, but power felt good. No more power than before, but the torque curve goes much lower in the RPM band now. 

Braking is much improved as is the steering. Actually, the new steering is so light that it is almost too light. Looking at correcting that with a spring centered steering stabilizer made for coaches. 

No smoke, no leaks, good oil pressure, cool temperatures even when pulling hard, all is well.

On our first major run since the major rebuild last winter. Couple of problems getting sorted out. Traveled with the wife, cats and a full load from Boise to Kellogg, Idaho. Pulled the Mercedes Benz ML430 SUV (heavy)

-Timing. Fought pinging problems really bad on the way up here. Did a bunch of research online last night and found out that having the vacuum advance on the ported vac is wrong. Needs to be on manifold vac for a situation like this. That way when I step into it and manifold vac drops and I go into a rich power mode, the vac advance backs off. (rich mixtures burn quicker than lean, needs much less advance).

Exactly the problem I was having. Too much advance under power.

-Fuel mixture too rich. Only pulled 5.5mpg. Should be around 6.5 under the conditions we drove in. I was hoping for much better, but I will settle for no worse than before the rebuild. We will see on the way home with the timing modification I just did and leaning the jetting out a bit.

-Generator quit just before arriving at camp. Looks like the points wore out. I replaced them and it is running again. I just need to fire it up under a load to adjust the carb a bit.

-New steering system and air ride suspension is great! Rides and drives fantastic.


5:22 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

11

And the story continues……  


First an update.  After a year of use since the chassis rebuild, the coach is driving great.  I am only going to do two more mods to the engine and call it good.  One is fuel injection.  I am so sick and tired of a carb that it is time for a change.  Then I am putting on an electric fan to get rid of the noisy fan clutch and oem fan.  I am using a fan from a Lincoln Mark 8 which actually flows just about as much air as the stock fan at the RPM's I run.


On to the interior, before shots:


All in all not bad for 35 years old, but it is time for new.  All new flooring, replace counter tops, sinks, wall paper, and swap out the dinette for a couch and floating tables.  We are also putting in a new Dometic fridge.  Ours is showing it's age, and having the auto start and switching of the ones is going to be really nice.  It is a Christmas gift from our parents.  Thanks mom and dad!


Dig the original carpet that was hiding under the seats….Cool


5:26 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

12

Time for another update.  This is turning into “Extreme Home Makeover, RV Edition”.


Had to pull the door and frame out to get the old fridge out of the coach and the new one in.  When I did so, I found some severe damage lurking in the entry step area.  For a coach as well built as this one is, I was fairly disappointed with how they constructed the entry step area.  It was a VERY light aluminum sheeting stapled to a plywood box.  This was to take all the load of entry and exit for years to come.  Added to that, a powered entry step was bolted up under it which added not only shear but torsional loads to the bottom of the box.  I knew it had been feeling “spongy” for years, but now found out the door frame was the only thing holding this area together. :puke1


The fix.  3/8 aluminum plating welded into a structural box, bolted through to supports on the frame.  All the wood put back in place, epoxied, and the step bolted back through the plating.  SOLID.  I can jump on the step and it does not even budge.  No small task for those that have seen me.

I also strengthened the door opening where the wood joints were.  I could see evidence of some flexing in this area.  All the wood was in good shape, so I just tightened everything down and added some corner bracing.  It will all be hidden behind the door molding.

Carpet in the drivers area is now finished.  I used a generic dyna mat as well as reflective thermal insulation on the floor topped with 8lb carpet padding.  Should help with heat and sound transfer.

New Dometic fridge is in place but needs to be finished.  Doors need to be installed as well as the trim work around the fridge finished to match the new size.  That is my next project.

5:32 pm
October 16, 2011


Sasquatch

Mod Enthusiast

Boise, Idaho

posts 11

13

Been busy in the old girl.  Finally hit the end of destruction and will be starting the assembly mode today.  Pulled the rest of the old carpet and pad.  Removed the shower door, toilet, counter tops and peeled all the wallpaper.  I will be doing wall prep today to get ready for painting.  The counter tops will be going to the cabinet maker tomorrow to use as patterns for new ones.  Then on to the new subfloor and flooring.



6:33 pm
October 28, 2011


Mike

Mod Enthusiast

Louisiana

posts 13

14

Nice work.


I love working with old stuff.



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