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Hunter Digital Thermostat With A/C Switch
Hunter Digital Thermostat With A/C Switch Wiring
Hunter Digital Thermostat Back Cover
Duotherm Analog to Hunter Digital Thermostat Wiring Digram
Duotherm Analog to Hunter Digital Thermostat Wiring Digram cont.
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This is a great mod! i only did one thing differently. i spent a couple bucks more and got a programmable thermostat. i have it programmed to turn on the heater in the early morning so we can wake up to a toasty coach!
Yeah, the programmable t-stats that manage both heating and cooling timing are pretty nice, but a little expensive. The one in this mod is about $25 but having the automation is cool (or hot?).
they’re not too bad. Lowes has one for $29
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=126338-79-44110
The one i bought was $40. I spent the extra $10 because it had a slightly larger display.
I am so happy with the control I now have of my temps…..my mechanical thermostat was awful In order to get the heat to come on I had to slide the leaver to over 90 then play with it to get it to where we wanted it….in the AC mode I had to take it down to 50 to get it to come on and then play with it..The swing was about 10 degrees……so out with the old and in with the new….as my ac has a high and low fan switch I had to rewire a toggle switch into the bottom of the unit….the instructions on how to do this was on one of the rv forums…..
From what I learned doing this mod I was able to figure out what was wrong with the thermostat in my daughters house….So now I will be doing a mod at her house…
Here is my Hunter Thermostat along side my outside/inside thermometer
http://community.webshots.com/album/570449799ViDYKl
One of the best mods I have done, sure beats that cheap analog stat by keeping the temp constant. Very easy mod.
My thermostat had two stage cooling. So I hooked up the high fan wire to the second stage cooling contact. The A/C now runs on low, but if the temperature difference is two great it then switches automatically to high fan. You can only one the fan on low setting thought if your running fan only.
@Kurt: Hey that’s an idea I haven’t heard of before. Good call. I may have to try that. What brand and model of t-stat are you using?
Great mod. Completed mine today and it was very easy to do. I was even able to use the existing mounting holes of the OEM thermostat.
Easy to do upgrade. I used the Hunter 42999 and added a SPST mini slide switch for Hi/Lo fan speed control. I kind of rushed thru my initial troubleshooting so… after I got the thermostat installed, I discovered my Hi speed relay was also faulty and I ended up replacing the PC Board/Junction Box (as an entire assembly) in my ceiling plenum. The end result is fully functional a/c.
I performed this MOD - great AC improvement. I used the Hunter t-stat in the article. I wired up the ground connection and incorporated a small 3.3V voltage regulator to eliminate the need for AA batteries.
I have an old Duo-therm 58915 (wall mount thermostat only), that I’m trying to get operational for a friend. Our problem is that his trailer was never wired for wall mount. Do you think this mod will work if we mount the thermostat on the ceiling next to the return air grill, and use it to control the air only (not heating)?
Kurt
What Model T-Stat did you use. I have the same type of system and need to change my T-Stat
@Portagie68: Here is a link to a 2-stage thermostat that may help you with you mod. It is similar to the one that @Kurt is referring to:
http://www.klenger.net/RV_General/HVAC_Honeywell_TH5220D_T-Stat/index.html
@Lloyd BC: Well, it would work but would be controlling the temperature based on the air temperature near the ceiling. If the ceiling gets hot (from the sun beating down on the roof), the A/C would run longer thinking it needs to cool more. You would have to compensate for that when setting your on/off temperature.
Is it possible for you to mount the t-stat on the wall near the ceiling? That would help with false temperature readings…
We could possibly wall mount it, but it would probably be on an outside wall, with about the same insulation value as the ceiling, so I don’t see what difference there would be in sensing. Most non-ducted units sense in the return plenum, and they have little or nothing in the way of insulation there. Consider the ‘Sunchaser’ I’m using, no insulation of any sort on the plenum (I think maybe I’ll buy a closed-cell (ensolite) sleeping pad and cut and glue it to the ouside of the plenum when I’m up there doing the start capacitor mod). This is just another way they went Cheap-O on this unit (Single control, single speed, no start capacitor).
I Like this but I have 120 volts AC at my yellow wire at the unit mounted thermostat.
Can a thermostat like above handle and switch 120 volts AC?
Reading some more, I see that this is a “replacement” for a wall mounted thermostat.
I do not have a wall mounted thermostat to control my AC unit, the controls are mounted directly on the unit.
I think I will take this Idea and switch a 12 volt relay and wire the the normally open contacts to the existing thermostat wires.
Do the older thermostats switch 120 volts?
I think what you’re dealing with is a typical non-ducted, integral control A/C, like my old ‘SunChaser’, with the sensing unit (thermostat) mounted in the return plenum. Yes, they do switch 120V. They’re basically just an automatic, temperature controlled, on-off switch for the compressor. I think you will find that these digital units will not handle much more than 24V, if even that. So, if your unit works as is, I would leave it alone.
Like Mike says, sensing at the ceiling isn’t too accurate, especially if there’s no insulation on the plenum. But it’s better than no cooling at all, in 100+f temps.
ModMyRv. Making procress on my conversation using the 2 stage T-Sat you suggested. One part I am having a small problem with is the relay that He used to control the high/low fan speed. Have you got any suggestions?
I have no field wires in my Everest bedroom were we had a Coleman Mach instaled.Bought the hunter stat dont know how to wire it into the AC,Do you use spade conectors.Any pics of how you do this in the AC,what guage wire do toy use, please.
Got the relay numbers from Kurt. He used 5Z486 and purchased it at Grainger. Grainge also says the relay 1EHE3 maybe a good sub.
My bag. The relay number is for the Hi/Lo Ac fan only.
I have the same set-up in my forest river wildcat,dometic therm.I replaced it with a Hunter model # 44110 works great.I used the same wiring diagram printed from #37 mod.I found a good deal on a Honeywell RTH 7500 therm,it has the automatic heat to cool change over which I think would work great during the fall during temp changes.I tried installing it with same wiring diagram from dometic to hunter,everything works great on it except for the a/c and the heat come on at the same time,any suggestion on what could be the problem.
I am looking for a 12 volt digital readout thermostat to control my 12 volt refridgeration aboard my boat.
Any ideas, and prices would be great… Terry Kennedy
Wow…awesome mod. I used a basic Honeywell digital. Easy to install and works like a charm. No more wild temperature swings in our 5ver.
I think this is a great mod! I have a question concerning doing this mod on a Coleman brand A/C heat pump any ideas on how to wire the T/stat?
Thanks
Could you just hook up the high speed AC wire on the fan terminal, and have high speed only?
Sure can and that’s how I did mine in a previous TT. Worked just fine.
Thanks, I’ll switch the wires today and make sure high speed fan comes on.
Have you seen the Ecobee Internet Enabled programmable thermostat?
If you haven’t it’s here: http://www.ecobee.com/
It’s $469.00 though. I know, I know…excessive.
But cool!!! (or hot?) >haha<@ModMyRV February 24th, 2009 at 9:35 am
Fan did not come on either way. Did more looking on the web, found another fellow hooked fan and high speed wires to terminal G. Fan now works in high speed mode only, no need for the SPST switch.Fan only switch on thermostat also works correctly now.
I have a 2009 jayco pop-up. would this mod work for me? I Do have roof top ac but I control it with the knobs. how ever its my heat I would like to operate with this digital thermostat. what do you think?
It should. Since your pop-up is new, it should have the “standard” thermostat most newer units come with. What brand is it? Have you removed it and looked at the wiring?
I just did this mod on 2009 keystone Cougar, works great.
Vary easy to do to.
how would you install the digital thermostat if you have two airs and two thermostats?
One tstat per unit. Like it is now.
OR, if both stats are mounted at the same location next to each other; then, both Yel on Yel terminal; both Wh on Wh terminal; etc etc. The tstat is nothing but a switch that makes closures to close a connection or open a connection. The “digital” aspect determines “when” to do so. If you wish to route two sets of wires through one stat, you can; so long as the A/C units are electrically the same. (i.e. both switch the “hot” side of the circuit or both switch the “low” side of the circuit). If the A/Cs are the same Model they definitley qualify.
One of the best things you can do to improve the heating in your RV. No more wide swings in the heat cycle.
Did the mod with the hunter therm.easy to install by the instructions on mod #37…..Thanks modmyrv….now going to get one for the back air…
My TT’s thermostat just has two wires, they are not labled but are colored Red and White. I’m looking at buying the Honeywell RTH221B1000, a basic programmable with an on/off switch, for only $24 on Amazon. However I’m not sure how to match up the wires. The manual says it is fine for two wire operation but doesn’t say which two wires to use. Ideas?
Go here for the manual:
http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/69-0000s/69-2060EFS.pdf
It looks like your stats wires are for heat only.
Para; 2.3 shows the White to “W” and the Red to “Rc/Rh”
Hope this helps.
Finished the mod tonight took less than 10 minutes and a screw driver. As noted above got a $24 thermostat on Amazon. VERY easy mod and it works great. I look forward to more efficient heating.
I did this mod on Sat. while camping this Easter weekend I used the programmable version.
I am trying to contact some body from your company. I have a Coleman -Mach thermostat in my RV. It has fallen apart and I need a replacement ( upgrade or what ever) The numbers on the rear side are as follows AG78390-0026, 6535-335. The skew number is F72871012300. If there is some one who can help me out I most certainly appreciate it. Either another web site or address would help . Another thermastate or upgrade , even where ever it Takes .
HELP
Bob,
Just replace the ’stat as outlined in this (above) “mod” article.
Read the comments and pick a replacement to your liking; buy it; install it. Almost any thermostat can be used. Follow the “install” instructions. Basically, label the existing wires with the terminal ID letter they are currently on (G, W, etc)and put them on the same terminal of the new ’stat. It’s really not difficult.
Toad
I replaced the Dometic analog unit in my trailer with a NOMA digital nonprogrammable unit from Canadian Tire. It was about 30 bucks. Simple install and it really works well! I didn’t hook up the high speed wire on the A/C fan yet. I’ll put that on my “get to it later” list!
Thanks!
I currenly have a Duo Therm Analog Thermostat (3107612.008). It is a 6 wire with the Ground wire being Green. I want to replace it with a Digitial programable Thermostat. I am looking for information on the correct unit to buy. Thank you for such a great source of information. I would appreciate it if you could send a response to my email.
Thank you.
I have a Coleman Mach 15kbtu. Used the Honeywell t-stat workes great.
Thanks
This is a simple mod that just makes sense……
I love this idea to stop huge temperature swings. I do have a question … While heating for example will this mod make heater fan come on and off every couple minutes? or would you recommend leaving fan on whole time and would this mod allow that?
I did this mod on our new travel trailer , and it works perfectly, i spent a little more and bought a honeywell programmable auto cool auto heat and it maintained the temperatures right on the dot.i could not have been happier…
Hello,
Where did you guys get the wires from the a/c unit? Mine is 120v ceiling mounted with no wall thermostat
It took more time to get the thermostat out of the package than it did to install it and it works great
Did the mod this weekend, Easy and quick, took longer for me to clean up my soldering skilss than to do the mod.
Easy mod and works great. I only have a surburban furnace with roof-mount AC being separate and for this, it’s just a two wire hookup. I used a Hunter 42995 ($20 at Wallmart.) Just follow the wiring in the instructions for a two wire heating system.
I have a Dometic Duo-Therm A/C and an Atwood 2 Stage Hydro-Flame furnace on a Glendale Titanium Fifth Wheel. The unit came with an Atwood Hydro-Flame Model 2H2C Digital thermostat.
The hysterisis is plus / minus 4 degrees F., so when set to 75 degrees F. the A/C doesn’t come on until it hits 79 and goes off when it hits 71 degrees F.
I would like to use the Hunter digital thermostat approach, using a Lux TX1500E (recommended by Lux for the RV) but am confused about the wiring.
The Atwood thermostat has the following terminals as shown in the manual:
#1 12VDC Ground
#2 Not used
#3 12VDC Positive
#4 Relay Com (* it says to move jumper to positions 3 & 4 for RVP Unit, and discard for Dometic)
#5 A/C Compressor
#6 A/C High Fan
#7 A/C Low Fan
#8 Furnace
I connected the Lux as follows:
A/C compressor connected to “Y”.
A/C High Fan connected to “G”.
Furnace connected to “W”
I wasn‘t sure what wire from the Atwood unit should be connected to “RC” and “RH”.
I didn’t know what to do with the “Relay Com” wire, if anything.
Can anyone help?
Replaced the Coleman Mach with a Honeywell Digital non-programmable RTH111. Just put electrical tape over the blue wire (formerly used for power on the coleman), and also on the gray wire (used for low speed fan), and put nothing on the O/B slot. The rest of the wires were easy.
Yellow (cooling)/
Red(12VDC)/
Green(High Speed Fan)/
White(Furnace)
If I get around to getting a switch, I’ll add the low speed fan back into the mix, but for now it’s all working great, and I’m impressed with how well this keeps the temp at +/- 1 degree F.
Hi I was wondering if anyone could help me out? I need to know how to turn off the hunter 4299B thermostat. Please let me know if anyone knows. Thank you.
Karen
Just did this mod while camping over Memorial Day weekend. I used the Hunter Just Right thermostat since only my heater is connected to a thermostat. It was a piece of cake connected two wires and the heater kicked on right away. What a difference as far as temp accuracy. My only complaint is that since this is so much more accurate I noticed my heater kicking on & off a lot more. Is this going to drain my batteries faster?
Mike
I did this mod with a Lux tx500 model and it worked great. I had planned to incorporate the hi-low switch but after running the the coleman thermostat in high and low I noticed no difference in speed or output. It was the same for the heater and the AC. I finally dicided to put only on fan speed witch made the conversion very quick and easy. The truth is…after thinking about it, we never changed the speed of the fan, it was always on high anyway.
By the way, the Lux thermostat has nine adjustable setting for sensitivity. I set it at level 4 and this gave me a one degree on either side of the set point.
Great mod, many thanks
Larry
Well, have bought all the stuff and done the work and just need to mount and wire the unit….had a few projects to do before I got to this one; install 2 100lb propane bottles with new supply hoses-done install new limit switch on water heater and element-done except the element as I can’t get the old one out. repair one water line and then it started going below 0 degrees. hit -30 last night and doing everything to conserve propane….hoping to finish the stat today!!! Easy mod so far..great idea. Bought mine at walmart just the basic 19.99 one.
Just joined up…this mod is something I have wanted to do since 2005. Trying to locate the Hunter 42996 (mod shown above) with remote but it seems to be discontinued. Does anyone know where I can locate one, or know of another digital thermostat with remote I can use? My trailer thermostat is analog and not real dependable. Need the remote option too. Please help if you can…
Does anyone have a wireing diagram for a Dometic Penguin heat pump?#651515 I found one at a garage sale(brand new) at a great price. The lady didn’t know anything about it. I just want to see if it runs, before I invest any more money in a ceilling control supply & return panel.Thanks.
Would this mod work with dual A/C units? The thermostat I have right now allows me to set the temperature separately in the main living space and bedroom of my 5th wheel.
Anybody done that?
Also one with a battery backup (just to retain the settings) for when the rig is at the storage lot.
Thanks!
I finally did this mod!!! Very simple and straight forward instructions. I couldn’t find the remote one and didn’t really NEED it and bought my unit at Wal-Mart for 19.99. Works great.
Hi there, this seems like a great but i’m wondering if anyone has ever done this for a simple heat only unit. Currently I have an Atwood 38453 tstat. I haven’t taken it off the wall yet, but i’m wondering if this will work for what I have. Can anyone help?
So I did this mod about 6 months ago and I just changed back to the old thermostat. Everything worked just fine but the heater kept cycling on and off all the time because of the sensitivity of the new thermostat. Our TT is well insulated but it didn’t take long on a cold night for the temp to drop one degree and kick the furnace back on. Often if would come back on before the old cycle was done.
Afraid I was going to drain the batteries too fast and then be a in for a really cold night after that…
I did this mod yesterday in about a half hour. I used the Hunter 44110 because it was programable. I used a micro mini switch because it hid within the unit better. My wiring colors were a little different, but if you take note when taking out your old unit, they should be well marked and you can figure it out pretty easily. I tested it out and it worked perfectly. Setting the program was a piece of cake and we are really looking forward to using it on our trip next weekend.
This weekend I’m putting in the Xantrex Freedom SW 3000… now that will not be a 30 minute job!
Hello camping freinds
I’m new to the forum and have already found the mods to be very helpful, like the screen door plexi glass mod.
I’m wanting to do the thermostat mod but not sure if i can.
I have the Dometic remote control and this thing is off by about7 to 8 degree.
Has anyone did this mod with the remote controled unit.
Thanks for any info Larry
I hooked up my hunter and when I put it on cool and put it in Auto the compressor kicks on and stays on all the time regardless of temp. then the fan starts when its gets to the set temp.??? please help im confused
Duo-Therm stat — Hunter stat
+7.5 (red) — not used
Cool (yellow) — Y/O
FUR (white) — W/B
Hi Fan (blue) — G
Fan (brown) — G
GND (green) — RC & RH(jumper)
is this right??
What about a carrier a/c unit and standard 2 wire heater that the heater red/white wires are run to the a/c unit board and both are controlled by a remote t-stat. Would like to add digital t-stat. Thanks.
We are replacing our colman thermostat with a basic non progrmable honeywell…our compressor is not kicking on……we know which wire is the compressor….orange….and we know the compressor works….we can figure out what we are doing wrong any suggestions
I have a Duo Therm A/C unit, a Suburban furnance, and a Duo Therm stat. Can I replace the stat with the Hunter 42995? Has anyone done this mod with this combination of components.
LRH
How do you deal with a/conditioning+furnace+heat strips? This is a 3 way duotherm system.
I have wanted to do this mod forever but my system sounds more complicated than most. I have heating in 4 zones from a hydronic unit and there are 4 roof A/C’s with heat pumps incorporated. These are all controlled by one thermostat that controls each of the 4 zones. There are temperature sensors in each of the zones. The thermostat is digital, but I don’t have programabilty and making a mad dash to turn up the heat on a cold morning is never pleasant.
Any help would be apreciated.
I carefully read all the info from the various posts on installing a digital thermostat, and then checked out the various thermostats. Long story short - here’s the most updated info and what I installed. The Hunter thermostat which many have installed (Model 42996) is supposedly no longer available. Besides, I wanted to REALLY upgrade and put in a fully programmable model which would: 1) be designed to run off batteries if no power is present; 2) fully programmable for workdays and weekends; 3) automatically switch from A/C to Heat when needed for those Spring/Fall days where it is cold in the morning and hot during the day.
I researched both Honeywell and Hunter, and talked to tech support at both companies. Although I liked the features, installation instructions and tech support better at Honeywell, I was not convinced their models would work in an RV installation. In fact, the Honeywell tech support assured me they would not!
So I reluctantly went with Hunter. Researched all the models online, and then went shopping online and at Lowes. Believe it or not, Lowes had the best prices (even better than Amazon), and I bought the Hunter Model 44860 for $59, less my 10% military discount (Good job Lowes!). My research shows this model actually states that it is designed to run on batteries if a power source is not available (i.e. 24v). If you read about this model, you’ll quickly discover that the owner’s manual and installation SUCKS. In spite of that, it’s a great thermostat!
Don’t even TRY to buy a small SPST switch and drill a hole in the cover and install it as indicated elsewhere. There is NO room! And I melted the small switch with my soldering pencil (I’m all thumbs when it comes to soldering). So I went shopping at Radio Shack and found a GREAT solution for the high-speed / low-speed fan switch for my DuoTherm setup. You can buy a SPST Rocker Switch, #275-0693 for $3.19. It is brown and has nice big spade terminals. Then buy a package of Insulated, Crimp-on, Quick Disconnects (female spade connectors), #6403049 for $2.19. Easy as pie! Just get about 18″ of small gauge wire (9″ for each lead), use two of the small female crimp-on 1/4″ disconnects (22-16 gauge), cut your 18″ wire in half, crimp a disconnect onto the end of each of the two wires, and plug both wires into the spade terminals on the back of the switch. Then use a small plastic wire nut and connect one of the two wires (doesn’t matter which) to the blue (high-speed fan) wire. Connect the other wire to the terminal on the thermostat that has the low-speed fan wire attached to that same terminal.
This switch is nice, since most RVs have the rocker switches. I wanted to be sure that when the rocker is flipped up it is on (like the other switches in my trailer) so I hooked an ohm meter up and when the side of the rocker with the little white dot is pushed in, the switch is “on.” So you can mount it in your wall right below your new thermostat so when you “push the dot” it is in the up position, and it is partially hidden and meets the “WAF” requirements. (Wife Acceptance Factor!)
Just wire the thermostat like the rest of the posts here tell you. No sweat! The biggest challenge is to get the little rocker switch mounted in the trailer wall by spinning on the screw-on nut on the inside of the wall! I was able to stick my fingers into the thermostat wire hole and using two fingers, carefully screw it on while holding the front of the switch with my other hand. I’m warning you - it takes a LITTLE patience!
Everything worked great! Search online for others who have been frustrated with programming this little jewel and you will find posts about how to do it. I’m still learning.
I hope this helps, and anyone wanting to put in a fully programmable thermostat can use this info and not spend hours researching like I did! Plus, if something goes wrong and it doesn’t work, just take it back to Lowes for a refund! If this thermostat didn’t work, or for those of you who want a programmable thermostat for less money, go to Lowes and buy the Hunter 44110. I’m doing this from memory, but I think it’s around $20!
UPDATE: It’s now 24 hours later, and I think I’m going to “downgrade” to the Hunter 44110. This automatic changeover from heat to cool, although good in theory, is difficult to implement in actuality. For example, on a early cold morning you may want the internal temperature to be 72 degrees when you get up, but then in the afternoon, when it’s hot, you may want the internal temperature to be 71 degrees to be nice and cool in your RV. I may be a dummy, but I don’t think you can do that, since there needs to be a “span” between heating and cooling. There’s no way (to the best of my knowledge) to “tell” the smart thermostat that it’s too hot and you want to cool it down to 71 degrees, and at the same time in the morning tell it that it’s too cold, and you want to heat it up to 72 degrees. Maybe the 44860 is a lot smarter than me. The 44110 has a manual switch to change from heat to cool, which makes it easy. I’d love to hear from anyone who has solved this dilemma!!!
I have a 24ft. Sunnybrook 5thWheel and my thermostat is connected to the AC unit via what looks like an RJ11 (4-connector) wire/cable. As my thermo just gave out I’m needing to replace the Hunter 44110 is a VERY affordable alternative to the $280 Duo-Ther upgrade kit. Can anyone give me some advice on how to hookup the Hunter via the RJ11 plug? Thanks!
The Hunter thermostat as a timer for my LP water heater. I was unable to find an inexpensive DC timer so I used the Hunter.
Now we stop cooking water at 11:00 pm and it allows the heater to start run only between 7:00 AM and 11:00 PM. After all it is just programable timer with a set of dry contacts and a temperature sensor. I will be putting a timer on the AC electric heater soon.
Hope this helps
Any other ideas for timer use.
Auto change over thermostats have a 3 degree differential between heating and cooling unless user progams it higher. Can’t be programmed lower than the 3 degrees.
Upon surfing the Dometic website this morning, I see Dometic now offers a Single Zone LCD Thermostat that replaces their less accurate analog Thermostat. I just ordered one for my RV through Camping World at $104.40. With tax and shipping, the cost was: $111.55. They offer 3 models and the one I ordered was: 3313189.023. That part number is for a white thermostat that controls the furnace, air conditioner, and heat pump. They also offer 3 models in black.
GReat website for RV DIY, really. I took on the Hunter Digital Thermostat swap when my Duotherm went out and changed both the box and compressor head unit. Great info. Feels like home and can program….. park for the week and by friday its ready for the family. But to the point have you any suggestions for a Duotherm HeatPump and maybe with the heat strip for emergency heat and to take the quick chill out. I am readig the service literature and comparing the to the available tstats. Any advice. to use the oEm tstat would be easy but I want to make my rv mine. Know it like my home. I’m rampling sorry. Idk to make it call for heat at the furnace easy, at the heat strip IDK with the heatpump maybe too muck to take on. I am in a temperate climate in Texas that on occacation in late Feb and MArch it dips but that it the rest is warmer. I would like to not use as much propane and not the space oil radiators.